What's made us exclusive

CONTENTS

Unique denim created from unconventional materials

EXCLUSIVE's developer discusses its creation

The elegance of cashmere stands out even in denim

The fabric of EXCLUSIVE is of course woven on vintage shuttle looms

Smooth silk and an exquisite texture

The quality is a testament to the commitment of the craftsperson

"EXCLUSIVE" is a denim label that defies convention to use high-quality cashmere and silk for the weft threads. Driven by the evolution of denim, MOMOTARO JEANS arrived at using these materials as a result of our pursuit of all-new denim combining both comfort and aesthetics. The creation of denim using such delicate, distinctly different textures compared to cotton was made possible only through our long-developed manufacturing facilities and relationships with craftsperson. Neither retrospective nor avant-garde, EXCLUSIVE is MOMOTARO JEANS' offering for a new chapter in the story of denim. We focus on factors that provide an "exclusive" experience for a fresh fit every time you wear our jeans.

PHOTOGRAPH：Kousuke Matsuki
Kazumasa Takeuchi（Ye/product）

EDIT & TEXT : Rui Konno

Unique denim created from unconventional materials

Zimbabwe Cotton

The weft yarn is made entirely from Zimbabwe cotton in both our CLASSIC series, which carries on the origins of MOMOTARO JEANS rooted in the heritage of denim, and our STANDARD series, which offers a modern update of denim through MOMOTARO JEANS' unique approach. This high-quality, medium-to-long staple cotton features fine, long fibers and exceptional durability, making it an ideal material for denim production.

Silk

Just as its beautiful sheen suggests, silk offers a smooth feel. With excellent moisture-wicking properties, it keeps the wearer dry and comfortable in summer while providing warmth in winter with its insulation. Our daily denim wear leverages our knowledge of this material that is comfortable year-round and has long been cherished by the Japanese people.

Cashmere

Cashmere fibers are highly prized due to their rarity, as only a small amount can be harvested from each cashmere goat. These goats evolved to have this natural, functional material to protect themselves against their harsh environment in mountainous regions. Cashmere has antibacterial and deodorizing properties and is also highly moisture-wicking and quick-drying. Above all, its soft texture provides a level of comfort that thick denim usually cannot offer.

Developers discuss the making of EXCLUSIVE

Creating denim using unconventional materials with no textbooks or manuals for guidance. EXCLUSIVE's developer looks back on anecdotes from its conceptual phase and the story of its completion.

Nobutaka Ando
Head of Planning & Development Office, JAPAN BLUE

Born in 1979 in Okayama Prefecture, Ando developed an interest in denim during elementary school and became obsessed with vintage clothing during the American casual fashion boom in Japan. Later, he became immersed in both domestic and international designer brands, and joined JAPAN BLUE to work in sales in the textile division. He is currently involved in developing many products for MOMOTARO JEANS.

—What led you to take on the challenge of making denim with unconventional materials?

Ando: I have been involved in manufacturing in Kojima for about 20 years now, but I personally felt something was missing when it came to simply remaking vintage or archive clothing. On the other hand, I found it incredibly enjoyable to mix the strengths from different fields of manufacturing. That is what made me want to try making denim with new materials. With EXCLUSIVE, I hope people can appreciate the fascinating aspects of Japanese manufacturing.

—Why did you choose these particular weft materials?

Ando: MOMOTARO JEANS had developed denim using silk in the past, but for this series, we also introduced cashmere to the lineup. Some might see this as a novelty, but due to the structure of denim fabric, the weft yarn is largely exposed on the reverse side. By choosing these materials, we aimed to ensure that the wearer can particularly experience comfort and a pleasant feel against the skin.

—What were the biggest challenges in the development?

Ando: Weaving denim with delicate cashmere and slippery silk is technically very difficult. However, a fabric factory we have worked with for a long time was willing to adjust their machinery specifically for this challenge, which led to our success. Since denim is woven under tension, the texture of cashmere was not fully apparent by just weaving it. To achieve the unique nap and soft feel of cashmere, we sent the fabric to be processed at a factory that produces flannel material.

—How do cashmere and silk respectively affect the overall look of the material?

Ando: The silk is characterized by the subtle sheen it adds to the fabric surface. To prevent it from being overly shiny, we used thicker spun silk threads in a two-ply weave, creating a natural texture similar to cotton that is easy to wear. To fine-tune this texture, we also made slight adjustments, such as using slightly thinner warp threads than usual. As for the cashmere, we used thread originally intended for knitwear and made it two-ply to give it a sense of thickness. The finished denim fabric had an exceptionally refined look, so we kept the stitching in similar tones for a chic appearance.

—Tell us about the EXCLUSIVE label.

Ando: Since our roots lie in fabric wholesaling, we see this series as a way to showcase the quality of our fabrics. It shows that we can produce materials with consistent high quality, free from defects or irregularities. Establishing it as a separate label and continuing it is also a testament to our commitment.

The elegance of cashmere stands out even in denim

This 13.7-ounce denim interweaves MOMOTARO JEANS' signature "特濃-TOKUNO BLUE" cotton warp threads with cashmere weft threads. While maintaining a sturdy thickness and firm texture, this fabric also offers a level of softness unattainable with 100% cotton. An even smoother feel against the skin was achieved by applying a flannel finishing process. To enhance its subdued aesthetic, the stitching subtly contrasts with the fabric. Three silhouette options are available: Straight, Tapered, and Slim.

1. Reinforced hidden rivets engraved with the logo on the hip pockets. 2. Tonal stitching and a black leather patch create a sleek look on the back. 3. Waistband lining makes it easy to tuck in shirts. 4. Brushed lining for the comfort factor.

The fabric of EXCLUSIVE is of course woven on vintage shuttle looms

Just like the "CLASSIC" series, which is known for its vintage-inspired look, the EXCLUSIVE denim fabric is slowly woven on traditional shuttle looms. Shinya Corporation, based in Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture, works on the production. With a history of 75 years, it was one of the first long-established companies in the area, which had many flag makers, to begin producing denim fabric. In the mid-1980s, the company supplied fabric to a globally renowned jeans brand, and it continues to produce denim for prestigious brands today.

1. A shuttle loom weaving 15.7-ounce cotton denim for the "CLASSIC" label. 2. The sight of dozens of vintage shuttle looms lined up is stunning, with the thunderous sound of shuttles echoing throughout the factory. 3. Etsuko Sato, Chairperson of Shinya Co., Ltd.

Smooth silk and an exquisite texture

The jeans with silk feature the "特濃-TOKUNO BLUE" color like the cashmere model but are made from heavier 15-ounce denim. The subtle sheen of silk adds to the subdued luster characteristic of rigid denim, resulting in a sharp and refined texture. With less friction, the fabric allows for smooth movement of the legs, making the jeans easy to put on and take off even with a slim silhouette or tight fit, while also remaining stress-free during wear. This product is tailored to Japan's four-season climate as it is cool and non-sticky in summer and warm in winter.

1. The original waistband lining design, featuring a brand name print in the same color, is also used for these jeans. The front fly is zip-only. 2. The back of the waist features leather in the patch and denim that complement each other's textures. 3. The moderate sheen enhances the fabric's understated presence through shadowing. 4. When turned inside out, the silk's qualities become even more apparent. The selvedge features a pink-edged design.

The quality is a testament to the commitment of the craftsperson

Innovative ideas in material usage and fabric development can only take shape through the skills of craftsperson and the strengths of the production site. A JAPAN BLUE craftsperson, who oversees the sewing process that transforms "EXCLUSIVE" fabrics into finished products while working on the sewing machine day and night, shares her thoughts.

Naomi Takebayashi
Sewing craftsperson

Takebayashi entered the world of tailoring at a young age and has spent half her life as a sewing craftsperson. After joining JAPAN BLUE, she took on a leadership role in the sewing area, supporting its high quality. She likes the vintage Union Special sewing machine in the back of the workshop.

"It has been almost 20 years since I joined JAPAN BLUE. I was already at the company when MOMOTARO JEANS started. I originally specialized in tailoring, so at first, I found working with rigid denim completely different from what I was used to. I spent a lot of time figuring out how to sew it neatly and how to make things work. I guess I have always enjoyed pursuing something. I have always believed that nothing is impossible.

A pair of jeans is the result of many people thinking together and pooling their strengths, including pattern makers, fabric suppliers, production staff, and sewing staff. For all of us who create the jeans, it may be just one out of tens of thousands of pairs, but for the person who wears it, that one pair is everything. That is why we have to give it our full attention. I leverage my tailoring experience in the denim we sew, and I am very meticulous about the finish and stitching precision. With EXCLUSIVE, because silk is a particularly slippery fabric, keeping the fabric steady and sewing it neatly relies entirely on touch and experience. I have been passing this knowledge down to our younger staff, and they have gradually improved so much that I hardly need to step in recently.

This teddy bear which hangs in a corner of the workshop was made by Takebayashi for fun. It is a testament to both her playful spirit and high skills as a craftsperson.

When we started adding lining to the waistbands, the existing sewing machines were not suited for the task. We consulted with our machine supplier, who modified the machines by creating custom jigs. We have been working with them for a long time, and since we have experienced the same era together, communication is incredibly smooth. Now, we also handle repairs ourselves, which allows us to observe how well-worn jeans tend to break down and leverage this insight for our future production. Our customers teach us things we would not notice on our own.

It may sound presumptuous, but since people are spending their hard-earned money on our products, I always feel that I want to sew as beautifully and neatly as possible. I just want to make something good. The greatest joy for both myself and the rest of the staff is knowing that people are happy wearing what we create.